www.emilyjanejohnston.com
Whenever I think of neighbourhoods in London, I catalogue them in itineraries. Call it an occupational hazard. As a travel writer, I’m constantly in “what to do in 24 hours” mode, even in my own backyard, always wanting to offer up a dream itinerary to showcase the best of any area. An iconic neighbourhood like Portman Marylebone, however, is one of the more difficult areas to break down into merely a 24-hour visit. The options available for dining, shopping, drinking and luxury sleeping are endless. We’re spoilt for choice. If pressed, however, I would recommend the following. And please know that it is quite difficult to make a wrong turn or step into any shop or café that isn’t worthy of praise in this corner of London.
We’ll make an early start at Boxcar Baker. Not only is the café quite picturesque, the pastries match the vibe precisely. Your mind will instantly swirl with wonderment at how they create such beautiful baked goods. When you bite into said carbohydrate, prepare for another sensation entirely. The pain au chocolate is as close to a mouthful of perfection as I’ve had in some time. For those looking for a more savoury experience, there is plenty on offer for hardy breakfasts and caffeine pick me ups, which we’ll need to power through into my next stop for you.
We’re headed to the famous Chiltern Street, a street that may be short in length but is absolutely packed with some of London’s most adored independent boutiques. We start at Monocle, and if you’re still feeling like you need a bit more coffee, stop into their café first and then wander over to the boutique for some shopping. You’ll find great brand collaborations, publications and one offs you never knew you needed in your life but will definitely walk away with pridefully.
Make sure you pop in next door to anatomē for a little spoiling in the arena of wellbeing. You’re walking into a shop people “in the know” swear by. This apothecary supplies botanical and nutritional supplements, skincare and oils for any ailment that needs supporting and their staff are wonderfully trained with a go-to attitude for prompt and caring assistance.
If you’re looking for a fashion upgrade, pop across the street to Mouki Mou which is quite literally a treasure trove of fab finds and is quite deceiving in size. You walk in thinking, “what a fabulous offering of clothing and jewellery”. They then invite you to step downstairs where you discover a maze of home goods, beautifully designed garments and endless offerings of beautiful adornments.
It’s at this point that you might start to feel the weight of your shopping bags, so may I suggest a coffee or juice break? Let’s head to Shreeji News, a shop that has recently partnered with the publication Airmail. The end result is a beautiful petite shop that is teeming with a curated magazine selection that you absolutely must browse! Pick your poison, order a coffee and sit outside immediately. This is the best place to people watch in Portman Marylebone. You’re directly across from Chiltern Firehouse, where fabulously dressed guests come and go at all hours of the day and night. Take it all in and then assess your footwear.
For me, Chiltern Street has always been a destination for women’s shoes as they have two retailers that are specifically placed for women that wear over a size 9! Crispins is a must stop. Ignore if this isn’t an issue, but keep in mind for anyone needing assistance in this area.
At this point I think it’s time we give ourselves a bit of breathing space, mixed with a helping of culture.
A short walk from Chiltern Street, you’ll come across the Wallace Collection, a fabulous museum that I believe is too often overlooked by visitors to London. There is a part of me that is reluctant to share this gem as it’s truly magnificent and, at present, never particularly crowded. They have a beautiful café in the atrium that serves delicious food and the gallery halls will be calling you forth after your meal. Whether you are interested in historic armoury or have a love for old master paintings, this collection has a little something for everyone. It’s well worth the detour and definitely stop for lunch here if you can.
Should you not be the museum enthusiast, I’d recommend making a lunch reservation at either Chiltern Firehouse (sitting outside in the fresh air in summer or winter is absolutely heaven here) or grabbing a quick bite at the Chiltern Street Deli. Let’s just say there’s no reason at all to skip any meals or snack breaks while in this neighbourhood. The food is just too good to pass up.
And speaking of food, let’s talk dinner. I’ve got you sorted for shopping and culture, so let’s move onto evening entertainment in the form of dinner and drinks.
For dinner, I recommend going to Roti Chai and getting there early! This is a beloved spot. It’s an Indian Street Food restaurant and I am not exaggerating when I say you can order any dish off the menu and you’ll be in heaven. But if you really want to let fate take a hand, let your waiter do the ordering for you. My first time in, I handed over the reins entirely and was delivered a meal that I have not stopped talking about since. The flavours are fireworks and the atmosphere electric.
After dinner, take a short walk to Nobu London Portman Square and step into the hotel through the lobby. I recommend this for one reason. The design here will take your breath away. For contemporary enthusiasts, you’ll be in your element. Take a swift turn to the right and you’ll find options for food and drinks. The cocktail bar serves drinks that are legendary in their makeup and are well worth a stop for one or two before bed!
Speaking of beds. If you are staying in the area, I highly recommend looking into The Prince Akatoki hotel. Again, a contemporary gem in London, this haven shines a light on Japanese hospitality with spacious and comfortable rooms that overlook a classic residential London skyline. And breakfast here is not to be missed. Both the service and the food itself will perfectly prepare you for wherever your next day will lead you in this incredible city.
Should you find yourself staying in the Portman Marylebone area, make sure to take a look at the directory on their website to see all of the amazing places you could visit for day two. I also highly recommend simply walking and getting lost. You can’t go wrong here. Each and every corner in this neighbourhood is a London highlight.